If you've wanted to try at-home composting but felt intimidated, you're not alone! There are a lot of gardeners out there with complex composting setups and methodologies, but — as is the case with many things — just because it can be complicated doesn't mean it has to be. Whatever space, time, and energy you have to devote to your composting efforts, the fundamentals don't change. (And even apartment gardeners can get in on the action!) Keep reading, and we'll show you how composting can be a surprisingly easy, environmentally friendly way to improve the health of your garden while reducing waste.

Composting Basics

The health of any garden starts and ends with the soil, and compost is one of the simplest and best ways to "feed" our soil and invest in its long-term health. The added organic matter from compost enhances not only the nutrient content of the soil, but its structure, too, allowing it to simultaneously hold more water and drain more easily. (This is especially important for Portland gardeners given the clay soils most of us have inherited.)

Composting harnesses the science of decomposition to efficiently transform organic materials that would otherwise go to waste — food scraps, yard debris, leaves, etc. — into dark, crumbly, nutrient-rich soil we can use in our gardens. While all of these things would eventually break down if simply left to rot, by creating favorable living conditions for the bacteria and fungi responsible for decomposition, we can speed up the process dramatically. All these microorganisms require is oxygen, moisture, warmth, and food — specifically, carbon and nitrogen.

Leaves, straw, wood, and shredded paper are all high in carbon, and in the composting world are referred to as "brown" materials. So-called "green" materials, by comparison, are high in nitrogen and include things like grass clippings and fruit and vegetable scraps. We need both for a compost pile, but generally you want to have more browns than greens — roughly three times more, although the ratio doesn't have to be exact. Some people layer these materials, while others don't. Feel free to experiment and see what works for you! The important thing is to make sure that your compost pile stays just barely damp, and that you occasionally "turn" the pile to aerate it. Too much moisture and too little oxygen will encourage anaerobic microorganisms to flourish, which will slow or stop the decomposition process, as well as generate unpleasant odors. (If this happens to you, see our troubleshooting section below.)

If you're getting caught up on the details of ratios and timing, it's good to remember: Decomposition happens all on its own, so even if we don't get everything exactly right, our pile will still eventually yield compost — it just may take longer!

Composting Methods

1. The Traditional (Easy) Way

Traditional composting doesn't have to be complicated. At its simplest, it involves creating a pile in a designated corner of your yard, or finding room for a bin that can hold your compost-in-progress. You want to ensure your receptacle is large enough to hold the amount of organic waste you generate — or, alternately, the amount of waste you plan to compost. It can be large or small, and you can also have more than one! Some people prefer a multi-bin setup to move compost between different bins as they turn it over. We have a few ready-made options at the Farm, but you can also look up plans to build your own.

Whatever your setup, putting it in a sunny location will help keep it warm so that our community of decomposers stays happy. You will want to add your browns and greens in a 3:1 ratio and turn the pile every few weeks. If the compost appears dry, add water to maintain the moisture level. Composting this way can take several months to a year, but when the compost has fully decomposed, it will have a dark, crumbly texture and an earthy smell, at which point it can be used in your garden as a mulch or soil amendment.

One way to speed up the traditional composting process is by using a rotating drum or bin that eliminates the need for manual turning. However, it's important to note that "tumbler composting" does require more regular monitoring, and production is limited to the size of your drum.

2. Hot Composting